Have a week or two you can dedicate to exploration? Northeastern Ontario is the perfect destination for overland explorers who want to take advantage of scenic drives, history and nature solitude. With plenty of long stretches of two-lane blacktop connecting larger communities – which are few and far between –hundreds of backcountry resource roads lead to quiet secluded locations that must be added to your itinerary.
A great option to explore this region of Ontario is a loop drive, travelling the two main east-west routes, Highways 11 and 17. Leaving and returning to North Bay this loop covers almost 1,900 kilometres (1,180 miles), taking around twenty-one hours of solid driving. But there are opportunities to shorten or extend the route and even do some out-and-back driving to discover out-of-the-way scenic attractions. This blog will describe this route and include plenty of spectacular destinations to add to your itinerary. And, having your Backroad Mapbook handy will also aid overlanders looking for a quiet spot to chill as they explore the vast swathes of Crown land in the untamed wilds of Northeastern Ontario.
TEMAGAMI REGION
North Bay makes a perfect jumping-off location to head into Northeastern Ontario with the first stop being the popular Temagami region. Martin River and Temagami offer Provincial Parks for those looking for amenities like showers and flush toilets. Rabbit Lake Road, a 41 kilometre (25 mile) gravel road finishes just before reaching Lake Temiskaming and the Ottawa River. Here, you can explore a portion of the Ottawa Temiskaming Highlands Trail where there are plenty of backcountry campsites. You can also find a pull-off along the road if you prefer a quick spot to wild camp on Crown Land next to a lake or under the stars.
The pristine wilderness of Temagami is a world-renowned canoe destination, but the area is also home to some spectacular old-growth forests. The White Bear Forest Conservation Reserve features a large number of hiking trails, offering up-close views of these massive trees. Just follow O’Connor Drive from Highway 11 to the welcome centre where, for a small fee, visitors can also climb to the top of a Fire Tower to survey the surrounding landscape.
Just a short drive up Highway 11 leads to the historic mining town of Cobalt and Temiskaming Shores. Visit the mining museum to pick up a guide and check out the many mining buildings, equipment and more spread around the community. The Devil’s Rock Trail, accessed from Bucke Park or off Highway 567, leads to a large rock outcrop set 150 metres (500 feet) above Lake Temiskaming.
ENGLEHART
A further drive north, Kap-Kig-Ewan Provincial Park can be found off Highway 11 at Englehart. This is a must-stop location as the waterfalls here are something to behold. Timing a trip with the berry season means exploring the trails will net you many wild raspberries. Just make a bit of noise while hiking as bears love these berries too!
KIRKLAND LAKE TO ESKER LAKES PROVINCIAL PARK
To the north of Englehart, taking Highway 66 leads into Kirkland Lake where, on the east end of town, the Toburn Gold Mine offers a great self-guided tour with plenty of mining equipment on display. Continuing east and turning north onto Highway 672 leads travellers to Esker Lakes Provincial Park, home to an annual blueberry festival that takes place in August every year. Scenic hiking trails lead through boreal forests surrounding esker lakes (esker lakes are ancient riverbeds that were created from melting glaciers). Camp here or find a spot along the highway on Crown Land and bed down for the night as there are plenty of backroads leading into the forests along the highway.
A SHORTER OPTION VIA TIMMINS AND CHAPLEAU
Leaving Esker Lakes, head north on Highway 672 to meet Highway 101. Heading east leads into Quebec and west reconnects with Highway 11 at Matheson. Those looking for a shorter trip have an option here. Continuing west on Highway 101, past Matheson, leads to Timmins, and further on you will hit Ivanhoe Lake Provincial Park at Foleyet. Here you can rest and take advantage of the scenic views this park has to offer.
Further west, before meeting Highway 129, you will come across a town called Chapleau. North of town is one of the largest game preserves in Canada, home to the largest black bear population in the province. A network of snaking forest roads leads through the reserve and there are plenty of spots to stop for a day or two to relax, fish and soak up the scenery and wildlife.
From Chapleau, following the winding Highway 129 south connects with Highway 17 in Thessalon, which can be followed back toward Greater Sudbury, then to North Bay to complete the loop. From Chapleau, a great option is a detour along Highway 667 leading to Wakami Lake Provincial Park, a rustic location well worth stopping to check out. Further south on Highway 129, the non-operating Aubrey Falls Provincial Park is home to yet another spectacular set of waterfalls, and it is also possible to wild camp overnight here.
THE FULL MONTY – TAKING THE LONG WAY HOME
If you have chosen to explore the full loop option, Kettle Lakes Provincial Park makes an ideal stop. Just west of Matheson with no backtracking required, the park offers quiet hiking trails with the chance to spot wildlife, great swimming and acres of blueberry fields in season.
COCHRANE – POLAR BEARS AND MORE!
Leaving Kettle Lakes, head north on Highway 67 to rejoin Highway 11 which makes its way into Cochrane and a chance to nab some supplies. The town is well-known for its Polar Bear Conservation Centre where visitors have the chance to see these magnificent creatures up close.
If time permits, an awesome side trip option is to jump on the Polar Bear Express and travel by rail to Moosonee on James Bay. Bring your camping gear and food (there are no restaurants) and plan to spend a night at Tidewater Provincial Park, set on an island in the middle of the Moose River.
SMOOTH ROCK FALLS AND MOONBEAM, WATERFALLS AND ALIENS
On route to Smooth Rock Falls, a detour leads to Greenwater Provincial Park. While concrete barriers keep vehicles out, those on foot or bike can explore the trails or do some fishing in this non-operating provincial park.
TIP: If you visit the park, do not retrace your drive south to Highway 11, while it is a dusty drive, Concessions 10 and 11 eventually lead back to Highway 11.
At Smooth Rock Falls head north on Highway 634 to Abitibi Canyon where Otter Rapids Road crosses over the top of the hydro dam. Watch for a turnoff for Little Abitibi Provincial Park and follow a road to a parking area where a short hike leads to New Post Falls, one of the most dramatic waterfalls in Northeastern Ontario. This is a great place to spend a night in the wild, but be aware that bears frequent the area. Bear protection is suggested.
The flying saucer visible from Highway 11 means you have reached Moonbeam. Rene Brunelle Provincial Park is a great destination, but hiking trails abound north of the community offering everything from a short 2.2 kilometre gravel trail to an 11 kilometre (7 mile) entirely paved, wheelchair-accessible route which provides access to several loop options.
KAPUSKASING AND HEART – FUSHIMI AND NAGAGAMISIS
Two of the larger communities along Highway 11 are Kapuskasing and Hearst, both offering a great spot to restock. Just west of Hearst, Fushimi Lake Provincial Park is another worthwhile stop. Quiet and peaceful, the showers look like they have never been used and the staff are extremely friendly too.
Just west of here, the route turns south as it leaves Highway 11 and picks up Highway 631 with the next stop being Nagagamisis Provincial Park, where many campsites sit on the waterfront. There are some great hiking trails, the lake is perfect for a refreshing dip and is also popular amongst anglers.
Just south of Nagagamisis is the small community of Hornpayne. There are plenty of backroads to explore here and intrepid explorers can even make their way over to Oba and into the north end of the Chapleau Crown Game Preserve where you are sure to find a quiet spot all to yourself.
PUKASKWA NATIONAL PARK
A scenic drive through boreal forest where plenty of evidence of recent wildfires can be seen, Highway 631 finishes at White River (home of Winnie the Pooh) on Highway 17. It is worth heading west before continuing east for a visit to Pukaskwa National Park, a park beloved by canoeist Bill Mason. Following Highway 627 south from Highway 17 leads to the first-come, first-serve campground at Hattie Cove. A highlight of the park is the 18 kilometre (11 mile) return hike which leads along the rugged Coastal Trail to a suspension bridge over the rapids on the White River.
WAWA AND LAKE SUPERIOR
Once you have spent two or three days, or more, exploring Pukaskwa, it is time to head east again with the next stop being Wawa. Look for the big goose but then watch for the sign to Magpie Falls, yup, another pretty impressive fall just a short drive off the highway.
Just to the south is one of the jewels in the Ontario Parks system, Lake Superior Provincial Park. Getting a campsite without a reservation in the heat of the summer is next to impossible, so be on top of this if you are looking to snag a spot! Ontario Parks (ontaripparks.com) allows campsites to be booked five months in advance. The scenery, sunsets and hiking trails make this park well worth a stop. Highlights here include the Orphan Lake Trail, the Awausee Trail and the Agawa Rocks Pictographs. Plan to pick up a day pass if you cannot get a campsite.
TIP: at Agawa Rocks, hiking south on the Coastal Trail for a half hour or so leads to some cool rock caves.
SOUTHBOUND TO THE SOO
The next stop on this overland loop through Northeastern Ontario is Sault Ste. Marie. Just before reaching the outskirts of the city, Highway 556 (Ranger Lake Road) heads east into the backcountry with plenty of backroads leading into Crown land. If you want to skip The Soo completely, Highway 556 ends at Highway 129 and a short jog north offers a visit to Aubrey Falls mentioned above, a great spot to spend the night wild camping. Heading south allows overlanders to rejoin Highway 17 at Thessalon. Be sure to top up with fuel at Bachawana Bay though.
TIP: Voyageur’s Lodge at Bachawana Bay, about halfway between Lake Superior Provincial Park and Sault Ste. Marie offers some of the best apple fritters anywhere. Enjoy one fresh out of the fryer and plan to pick up a half dozen to take with you!
The trip starts to become a bit more urban at Sault Ste. Marie. Turning east and away from Lake Superior, the highway follows the North Channel of Lake Huron and there are numerous towns along this stretch of road. One worthwhile stop is Chutes Provincial Park at Massey. Once again, the falls here are impressive.
ONWARD TO THE BIG NICKEL - SUDBURY
At Espanola, just west of Sudbury, an optional side trip south leads to Manitoulin Island, home to Bridal Falls. There are also some great hiking trails at Misery Bay Provincial Park and a dark sky preserve at the Manitoulin Eco Park. Or heading north on Highway 144 just before reaching Sudbury leads to Onaping where the A.Y. Jackson Trail leads to yet another pretty sweet 46 metre (150 foot) waterfall. Sudbury, rich in mining history, is home to Dynamic Earth, Science North and the Big Nickel offering a full day of exploration.
THE HOME STRETCH - BACK TO NORTH BAY
As you make your way back into North Bay, watch for a parking area and hike the trails in and around Duchesnay Falls, found just to the east of town.
This route and these attractions are just a few of many found throughout Northeastern Ontario. Branching off Highway 11 or 17 leads into some impressive landscapes and plenty of Crown land to explore. Highway 560 runs for approximately 184 kilometres (114 miles) to link Highway 144 with Highway 65 at Elk Lake and there are countless old mine sites found along logging roads running off the highway. It is also possible to cross over into Quebec and run a loop on both sides of the Ottawa River. The options are only limited to time and imagination.
Ready to head out and explore the backcountry and numerous attractions in Northeastern Ontario? Pick up our new 6th Edition Northeastern Ontario Backroad Mapbook or download the BRMB Maps app and web map where you will find detailed information on backroad attractions, trails, parks, fishing and more!