Home to some of Canada’s most pristine wilderness, Northern BC features big lakes and rivers and spectacular ocean kayaking routes for canoeists and kayakers to explore. Many of these trips will take paddlers on routes used by early explorers and fur traders as well as First Nations before them. While some routes have semi-formal campsites, many routes travel rough and rugged backcountry, where finding a never-used spot to camp for the night can be the highlight of the day with dinner often just being a cast away. And don’t forget wildlife. Watch for humpback and killer whale pods, seals and more along the coast while inland, black and grizzly bears, moose and elk can often be spotted along the shores of many rivers and lakes.
While there is a wealth of possible routes to explore in an area that encompasses half the province of British Columbia, below are five canoe routes that merit consideration by anyone looking to get out into the wilds in Northern BC.
Gwaii Haanas National Park Area
Covering the southern part of Haida Gwaii, this is one of the great kayaking destinations in the country. Made up of thousands of kilometres of broken islands and islets, the waterways of the park are ideal for sea kayaking. However, this is an area that is best suited to experienced kayakers since exposed crossings and hazardous stretches of coastline and headlands can pose problems. The east side of the park offers more sheltered routes, with a mix of islands, islets and inlets as well as better prospects with the ever-changing weather conditions. Unfortunately, the west side is steep and rocky with lengthy sections of cliffs making landing all but impossible. Highlights of Gwaii Haanas include the All Alone Stone, a 60 kilometre (37 mile) paddle from Rose Harbour, the 75 kilometre (47 mile) trek to Hlk’yah llnagaay (Windy Bay) from Moresby Camp, and the 75 kilometre (47 mile) trip to Gandl K’in Gwaayaay (Hot Spring Island), which also leaves from Rose Harbour. Kayakers should plan for at least fourteen days to truly explore the inner coast and southern tip.
Heather-Dina Lake Canoe Route
Those looking to get a taste of what a backcountry canoe trip entails can do no better than the Heather-Dina Lakes Canoe Loop which covers about 13 kilometres (8 miles). What makes this a great beginner route is the fact that the longest portage is only 700 metres (2,300 feet) and, depending on water levels, it is often possible to paddle the creeks connecting the lakes. During higher water, many just line their canoe rather than haul it over a beaver dam. Access is also quite easy, accessed off the Parsnip Forest Service Road from Highway 39, about 10 kilometres north of the town of Mackenzie.
The loop can easily be completed in two days, heading north from Heather Lake, travelling through Dina #4, Dina #3, Dina #1, Dina #6 and Dina #5 before making its way back through Dina #4 and Heather Lake back to the put-in. A hiking trail running off the portage between Dina #3 and Dina #1 leads up to Dina #2 for those wanting to visit them all. Rustic campsites can be found on each lake and fishing for stocked rainbow trout on the Dina Lakes is also popular.
Omineca River Paddling Route
Home to a 19th-century gold rush, the Omineca River makes a nice 5-day paddle. As the smaller volume river is relatively slow-moving with gentle currents, it makes it a great spot to learn moving-water skills. However, lower water exposes several kilometres of more challenging rock-studded Class II rapids, especially between Germansen Landing and Williston Lake. There are several put-in points but a trip from Old Hogem through Germansen Landing and up to the take-out on the Omineca Arm of Williston Lake is 130 kilometres (81 miles) with no mandatory portages. The river runs through Omineca Provincial Park and a four-wheel drive vehicle is recommended to reach any access points.
Spatsizi River/Stikine River Paddling Route
At 265 kilometres (165 miles), this is a long, challenging trek through beautiful, rustic canyons and forests. This stretch of the Stikine is Grade II with Class III and IV rapids. The trip starts with a 5 kilometre (3 mile) portage from the BC Railgrade (a long trek from the nearest road which leads west from Tatogga) to the upper end of the Spatsizi. En route to the take-out at the Stewart-Cassiar Highway (Highway 37) bridge, there are many difficult sections, most notably the Class III-IV Jewel Rapids, found shortly after the Spatsizi River flows into the Stikine River. There is no portage trail around them, and there are reports that the warning sign is no longer visible so take caution. The best canoeing begins in mid-July after the high water has passed. While July to August offers the most reliable weather, September and October are the best time to see wildlife. Expect to take about 10 days to complete the trip.
Takla-Stuart Lake Paddling Route
The exact opposite of the Heather-Dina route, this 285 kilometre (177 mile) route, which takes about ten days to complete, travels through three of the largest lakes in central British Columbia. The trip begins at Takla Landing and travels down Takla Lake (96 km/60 miles in length), then along the Middle River for an additional 22 km (14 miles). The river leads to Trembleur Lake (50 km/31 miles in length), followed by the Tachie River (26 km/16 miles), and into Stuart Lake and the final 90 kilometre (56 mile) stretch to the take-out found at Paarens Beach or Sowchea Bay west of Fort St. James.
The rivers have a few Class II features, but nothing intermediate paddlers can’t handle. However, the wind on the bigger lakes can strand groups for days and should be factored into travel time. It is possible in some instances to avoid the wind by paddling early in the morning or just before dusk. As with most areas of Northern BC, plan to bring a fishing rod as the lakes hold rainbow and lake trout, kokanee, burbot and mountain whitefish. There are ample wilderness camping opportunities along this route, which is known for its untouched beaches and forests.
While these paddling routes are just a small sample of what lake, river and ocean paddlers will find in Northern BC, we hope it has spurred your imagination to head out in a canoe or kayak and explore. If so, check out the 7th Edition of our Northern BC Backroad Mapbook where these and countless other routes can be found. It is also recommended to download the BRMB Maps app for IOS and Android where even more details and route options can be found. And while you are out there, be sure to add your photos and reviews on the BRMB Maps app or tag us on social media with #BRMBLIFE.