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Exploring the Backroads of the Cariboo Chilcotin

The Cariboo Chilcotin Coast could be considered British Columbia’s Final Frontier. The landscape features vast stretches of unspoiled wilderness, where forests extend far beyond the horizon and mountain peaks jut up against the sky. With rolling plateaus to the east and the Pacific Ocean to the west, highways 20, 24 and 97 provide a backbone for exploring the area. But to truly discover all this region has to offer, one needs to get off these roads and make their way onto the backroads which spread out in all directions. Here explorers will find charming and welcoming small communities, home to natural attractions, gold rush heritage, cattle ranching, rainforests, spirit bears, unbelievable fishing and more.

To give you a sense of what is on offer, here are a few road trip ideas to truly discover this special part of British Columbia.

Highway 20

Angling Along the Fishing Highway

Just under 100 kilometres (62 miles) in length, Highway 24 runs west off Highway 97 at 93 Mile House to Highway 16 and Little Fort and has been dubbed the “Fishing Highway” for good reason. This scenic route is home to around one hundred crystal clear lakes for fishing and sports.

Adding to the appeal, there are several small communities with unique attractions along the highway to cater to visitors. Built to serve steam locomotives circa 1920, a wooden water tower, one of the last existing structures in the entire province, can be found at Lone Butte. Interlakes sits along Highway 24 where it meets Horse Lake Road and serves as a great destination for anglers to restock and resupply before heading north onto the plateau where hundreds of small trout lakes await. Next up is Sheridan Lake. For those not into fishing, there are over 200 kilometres (125 miles) of mapped and signed trails for hiking, mountain biking, horseback riding, ATVing and snowmobiling found south and west of the village. Rounding out the communities is Bridge Lake which was originally situated on the historic Fur Brigade Trail, dating back to early pioneer days when fur traders travelled by waterways and overland trails. After the construction of the Cariboo Waggon Road during the 1860s, the Fur Brigade Trail was no longer required. Today, Bridge Lake is surrounded by several resorts and offers some of the finest fishing in the province. 

But let’s be honest if you are here, chances are you will want to fish. Highlights along the “Fishing Highway” include Sheridan Lake, which holds wild brook trout and is stocked heavily annually with rainbow trout. Next door is  Bridge Lake, which features burbot and lake trout and is stocked annually with kokanee and rainbow trout. Lac des Roches, home to burbot and stocked with rainbow trout, rounds out the big lakes. And to make things even better, most trout are big Blackwaters, a feisty and hard-fighting fish guaranteed to provide epic battles on the water! In addition to these larger lakes, look for plenty of smaller lakes sitting right along backroads and only a short drive from the main highway. Bonaparte Road, Wavey Lake and the Taweel Forest Service Roads provide easy access to these smaller lakes, most offering natural and/or stocked trout.

Lac des Roches, BC

Following the Gold Rush Trail

Billy Barker’s legendary gold strike on Williams Creek in the Cariboo triggered a multi-billion dollar industrial revolution that literally built the province. Today, the historic town of Barkerville offers a fascinating glimpse into British Columbia’s golden beginnings. But let’s not “rush” into things like the early prospectors as the backroads leading northeast off Highway 97 from 150 Mile House offer small communities and plenty to explore.

From Highway 97, head northeast on Horsefly Road to the community of Horsefly. Sitting in the foothills of the Cariboo Mountains, gold was first discovered here in the Horsefly River in 1859. Those who enjoy waterfalls can visit both Horsefly and Moffat Falls, found just 7 km south of town, while the Horsefly River also boasts of being the second biggest salmon spawning river in the province. The falls are best visited in late spring while the salmon spawn in the fall. Those looking to explore this area further before continuing north can make their way east to Black Creek then follow rugged roads south to Crooked Lake, Hendrix Lake and even over to the Wells Gray Provincial Park border where the Flourmill Volcanoes await. Few visit this far east but those that do will discover cinder cones, lava flows and lava tubes around a pair of extinct volcanoes. 

Horsefly, BC - Cariboo Chilcotin Coast BC Backroad Mapbook 7th Edition

Named after popular prospector, John “Plato” Likely, this small community sits at the west end of Quesnel Lake, the deepest fjord lake in North America. There are several things to explore in and around the community including the Bullion Pit Lookout which looks out and over the huge pit formed by hydraulic mining between 1892 and 1942, the Quesnel Forks Ghost Town, originally founded in 1859 and home to a few restored buildings, and the unmaintained ‘Ditch Road’ (Horsefly-Likely FSR) which leads to the Chinese Oven, built by Chinese diggers in the 1890’s to produce coke for the blacksmiths. 

The 8400 Road which crosses the Cariboo River north of Likely leads to Ghost Lake, a scenic destination with a pair of waterfalls, one on the road in, the other accessed from the campground beside the lake. Along the way, plan to stop and hike a 3.5 km (2.2 mile) route gaining 500 metres (1,640 feet) to the top of Browntop Mountain, cast a line in Cariboo Lake, home to wild rainbow, lake trout, kokanee and dolly varden, or explore the Cameron Ridge Trails which lead to spectacular views over the north arm of Quesnel Lake and is home to an abundance of wildlife.

From Ghost Lake, the 3100 Road leads into Barkerville. The 2024 Antler Creek fire narrowly missed the village, home to 125 restored historic buildings, the Theatre Royal and a host of daily programs including gold panning and guided tours. Paddlers will find a road leading north from Barkerville to Bowron Lake Provincial Park, home to the world-renowned 108 kilometre (68 mile) Bowron Lakes Canoe Circuit.

Heading east towards Quesnel, the Gold Rush Trail continues past Wells, home to a plethora of hiking, mountain biking, equestrian, ATVing and snowmobile trails and the 90-year-old Wells Hotel. Finally, at Cottonwood be sure to explore Cottonwood House. This was one of the most famous roadhouses along the Cariboo Waggon Road and was built in 1864 by John Ryder and Allen Smith. The site is home to many heritage buildings including the Double Barn, built in 1895, and the General Store, originally built as a warehouse in 1888.

Barkerville, BC

Highway 20 to Bella Coola

Highway 20 begins at Williams Lake and heads west, ending at the North Bentinck Arm and Bella Coola. The first 320 kilometres (200 miles), or as far as Anahim Lake, is paved as it travels through the Chilcotin Plateau and small communities including Riske Creek, Hanceville, Alexis Creek and Tatla Lake. From these small towns, there are plenty of out-and-back adventures. Sadly, the Farewell Canyon Hoodoos site, typically reached by heading south from Riske Creek, was severely damaged by the landslide on the Chilcotin River in August of 2024 and the bridge over the river has been temporarily closed. Once reopened, those looking for an extended drive can travel south to Gang Ranch and the Churn Creek Protected Area, Birdwatchers will want to head north at Alexis Creek and visit White Pelican Provincial Park, the only besting place in the province for this rare bird. From Hanceville, backroads lead south to the Big Creek Provincial Park while from Tatla Lake, head south to Tatlayoko or Chilko Lakes where solitude awaits.

Nimpo Lake is known as “the float plane capital of British Columbia” and it is a major launch point for aerial sightseeing tours and fishing fly-ins to the West Chilcotin’s pristine wilderness lakes and rivers including the Charlotte Alplands. When the road turns to gravel at Anahim Lake, the fun begins. Anahim Lake is the eastern gateway to the southern portion of Tweedsmuir Provincial Park and its’ phenomenal wilderness recreation opportunities. There are hiking trails, scenic viewpoints and countless waterfalls as the highway wanders through the park. It is also home to what is affectionally known as “The Hill”. This section of road features 11 kilometres (6.8 miles) of switchbacks at a maximum grade of 18% as it drops into the Bella Coola valley from Heckman Pass. Those travelling with a trailer and not planning to spend the night in the valley are advised to leave it at Anahim Lake.

Heckman Pass, BC

Once in Bella Coola, relax and rejuvenate yourself in this small coastal community. Resting in the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest, the Bella Coola Valley offers spectacular scenery, wildlife and cultural history such as the ancient petroglyphs of the Nuxalk Nation. Hikers will find trails just about everywhere running off Highway 20 between Tweedsmuir and Bella Coola with highlights including routes to Hammer Lakes and the spectacular Odegaard Falls, the Burnt Bridge Loop with its suspension bridge, and the old fire lookout at the end of the Medby Rock Trail. Those with a high clearance four-wheel drive can travel up the Clayton Falls FSR and over the pass to visit Blue Jay and M. Gurr Lakes. From there it is possible to hike, bike or ATV down to the Big Cedar on Larso Bay where a backcountry campsite can be found.  Kayakers can also visit the Big Cedar and the Talheo Hot Springs while exploring the South Bentinck Arm. There is a wealth of adventure to discover before making your way back out of the valley or hopping on a ferry and venturing south along the inside coast to Port Hardy, another adventure unto itself. 

Bella Coola, BC - Cariboo Chilcotin Coast BC Backroad Mapbook 7th Edition

Have these great road trips and small communities got you thinking about getting out and exploring the Cariboo Chilcotin? If so, pick up the 7th Edition of the Cariboo Chilcotin Coast Backroad Mapbook or the BRMB Maps app for IOS and Android where all these locations are described in more detail in our Adventures section, from fishing lakes to hiking trails to backroad attractions. When out and about, be sure to add your photos and reviews on the BRMB Maps app or tag us on social media with #BRMBLIFE.


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